With its dramatic natural beauty, tempestuous weather, and fiercely protected culture, the Faroe Islands offer unreal vistas and echoes of a Viking past to any modern adventurer who is willing to lace up a pair of hiking boots and explore. This is your Essential Guide To The Faroe Islands.
With a little planning, a trusty rental car, and flexibility for the weather, the highlights of this yet-to-be-discovered destination can be easily explored in 4-5 days.
What to Do
Visiting the Faroe Islands is all about enjoying its gorgeous landscapes and great hiking.
There aren’t any national parks within the Faroe Islands which means that all of the hiking is on private property. In the past, the farmers have been gracious to allow tourists to traverse their property, but recently they have started to impose pretty significant fees to hike on their land. Some of these have a person posted as a gatekeeper and collecting the fees while others have an honor dropbox, with only the sheep watching to make sure you donate.
Here are nine must-see places.
Torshavn
The capital and largest city within the Faroe Islands, Torshavn is compact and quaint, with life centering around the colorful harbor. Its 20,000 inhabitants are nestled among historic wooden buildings and modern colorful architecture. Conveniently, all the cozy cafes, quirky shops, high-end restaurants, and thriving businesses are all within a 10-minute walk of the working harbor.
The city can easily be explored on foot in an afternoon. Be sure to visit the “old town” section made up of tiny wooden houses, painted black with white trim and featuring bright green turf roofs. Some of these delightful dwellings are over 500 years old.
Mykines
Puffins, fluffy white sheep, and a perfect lighthouse, what more could you want in a days’ adventure. To reach Mykines you have two options, a bumpy 30-minute ferry ride or a quick and scenic 11-minute helicopter flight. Atlantic Airways offers several flights a day at very affordable prices. The helicopter only seats 12 passengers and the flights sell out quickly. You can only book 7 days in advance so set your alarm to book as soon as available. Tourists can only book a flight one-way and must take the ferry for the return leg of the trip.
Once on Mykines you will hike through the tiny village and up the hill where you will begin to encounter the nesting puffins. During nesting season these cute, clown-faced birds build their nests in burrows along the hillside. The hiking trail meanders through the nesting site and the curious birds sit and pose for the island visitors’ snapshots.
The vibrant green landscape is dotted by puffs of white as the island sheep gorge themselves on the grass and stare at the camera-wielding visitors.
Allow at least 2 hours to hike to the lighthouse and back to the village. If you have extra time before the ferry arrives, you may be able to grab a hot cup of coffee at the one island cafe. Service is spotty and the cafe is only open when the owner fancies.
If you take the helicopter you will leave your car at the airport. The return ferry will drop you off at the ferry dock which is an easy 30-minute walk back to the airport to pick up your car.
Buttercup Route
As you drive along the roads in the Faroe Islands you will notice signposts with a buttercup symbol painted on them after the Faroese territorial flower. These denote the Buttercup Route, a path that takes visitors to all of the spectacular villages, scenic points, and highlights of the Faroe Islands. You can follow the route in perfect detail or just pull over upon seeing the buttercup signposts as time permits. Regardless of your route, you will not be disappointed.
Gjógv Village
Getting its name from the natural gorge that splits the village and provides a protected harbor for boats, Gjógv is a colorful town located on the northeast tip of the island of Eysturoy. Climb the hill above the village to watch the powerful waves crash into the gorge. If you are a dog lover, be sure to play fetch with the friendly local dog who has substituted a rock for the stereotypical ball.
Saksun
This village on the island of Streymoy is small in population (just 8 people) but big on charm. Surrounded by mountains and situated on a lagoon that leads to the sea, the small turf-roofed and colorful cottages are postcard perfect. White sheep dot the waterfall covered hillsides. Stay for an hour to explore the museum and church or walk down to the beach. Or spend a quiet night in one of the cottages that were just opened up for rental on Airbnb.
Múlafossur Waterfall
Located below the tiny village of Gásadalur and just a quick 10-minute drive from the airport, making Múlafossur a picture-perfect introduction to the jaw-dropping beauty of the Faroe Islands. The stunning waterfall seems to magically appear from beneath the colorful hillside village and tumbles into the crashing waves of the North Atlantic.
There is ample parking in the village and the waterfall viewing area is just a short walk through a green pasture filled with friendly sheep.
Sørvágsvatn Lake
Possibly the most famous image of the Faroe Islands, Sørvágsvatn is the largest lake in the Faroe Islands. Its unique position provides an optical illusion that it is floating above the crashing North Atlantic ocean. It takes some hiking, good weather, and a specific angle to get this special effect. Even if this magic mixture doesn’t come together for you, the dramatic coastline and views are still stunning.
The farmer who owns the land surrounding the lake charges for entry. There is a parking lot and an official ticket office that collects 200DKK for entry. This fee is to help maintain the trails, but its steep price is also mitigating the crowds. The hike to the end of the lake is an easy 45 minutes on a flat well-marked trail.
Klakkur Mountain
The epic view from Klakkur Mountain is a photographer’s delight. Dusted in snow, shrouded in fog, or basked in sunlight, hikers flock to this vertical mountain hike for the chance to glimpse the dramatic island landscape nestled among the blue North Atlantic waters. The trailhead is at the end of a gravel road. Hikers pass through a little wooden gate, paying the fee either by depositing funds in the box or texting the fee to the technologically savvy farmer. The hiking trail is dirt and soggy grass and it is straight-up the mountain-side. Take frequent breaks to turn and enjoy the panoramic view. Unfortunately, the peak at Klakkur was engulfed in clouds the day we visited, so we opted to hike only part of the way. Below are a few picks from the summit by Maciej Brencz on Flickr.
Kallur Lighthouse
This gorgeous 3-mile hike takes you to the northern tip of Kalsoy island to visit the iconic white and red lighthouse situated on the narrow spine of the island. The island is only accessible via a ferry ride from Klaksvik. This means you need to carefully review the ferry schedules, provide ample time for driving (it is about a 1 1/2 hour drive from Torshavn), and arrive early. The ferry is tiny and only allows for a handful of cars. Since this is a popular destination, it is important to arrive at least an hour early to the ferry dock to ensure you will have a place on the boat.
Once you arrive in Klasoy, you will have a 20-minute drive through several single-lane tunnels to the tiny village of Trøllanes. You will find a small parking lot that fits just eight cars and a modern restroom which is best to use before beginning your hike.
The hike itself is up the hill along a grassy and dirt trail, be sure to stay on the hiking trail and not meander off onto one of the many sheep trails. The hike is moderately easy and should take you about 45 minutes to reach the lighthouse, weather permitting.
Bonus Destinations
Sornfelli
One of our particularly favorite photo spots, which seemed to be overlooked by most travelers, is the view from a protruding rock formation near the Sornfelli parking lot. It’s no more than a 15-minute hike down a trail located on the west side of the parking lot. Just park and head westward from the lot and you’ll find a trail leading to the left. Follow it and you find this epic photo spot. See pics below.
Funninger
This view of the village at Funninger is seen from the road.
Norðradalur
The view of Norðradalur from high up next to the road is truly spectacular.
Tjørnuvík
The charming seaside village at Tjørnuvík seems like a toy village dwarfed by massive green mountains on three sides.
Traveler Essentials
Arrival
Visitors to the Faroe Islands arrive either via ferry, cruise ship, or airplane. Flights arrive daily at the compact airport in Vagar from Iceland and Copenhagen and seasonally from the UK.
If you are flying in from Copenhagen a window seat on the right side of the plane is recommended to capture an aerial glimpse of the famous waterfall and dramatic Faroe coastline. A perfect way to whet your appetite for the adventures ahead.
Upon arrival in Vagar you are greeted by a large duty-free store. Liquor is the heavily featured item given the purchase restrictions within the Faroes. Outside of the airport, you must purchase alcohol (including beer and wine) at a government-run store. If you are renting an apartment and want to enjoy a glass of wine or warming whiskey at the end of the day, grab a bottle before leaving the airport.
Car Rental
There are numerous rental agencies available for pickup at the airport. The car rental center is next to the arrivals lounge, you will need to walk outside to access. Once you have completed your paperwork the cars are all kept in the parking lot in front of the airport. There is a covered walkway from the airport to the end where the rental cars are parked.
62 Degrees N is the local office that coordinates the rentals on behalf of international brands such as Hertz, Avis, and Sixt.
Driving
Driving is pretty straight forward and traffic is minimal. It is not uncommon to drive for miles without seeing another vehicle. That being said, there are only a few main roads within the Faroe Islands and the locals all know them well and tend to drive quite fast. Be respectful of the local drivers and don’t putter along or randomly stop to gape the view. Pullover in the designated turnouts which are usually conveniently located near a stunning vantage point.
Local traffic laws require you to keep your headlights on at all times. The only tricky part of driving is the single lane tunnels. Upon entering the tunnel you will see a sign that shows which direction has the right-of-way. Once inside it is pretty obvious which direction yields because it has turnouts every 100 meters. Look for oncoming headlines and pull into the turnout. Wait until the oncoming car has passed and then continue on your way. Be careful entering and exiting the tunnels as they can have blindspots.
Ferries are another stress point for drivers. Because the ferries are quite small, and they wish to accommodate as many cars as possible, cars will be packed in like a complex jigsaw puzzle. Trust the ferry workers as they direct you to pull forward, to the right and left with mere inches between the vehicles. Once the ferry lands, they will direct each car out one at a time. Wait until they signal it is your turn and carefully navigate off the ship.
Parking is readily available in timed lots throughout the city of Torshavn. Rental cars will come with a little clock fixed to the windshield. Adjust the hands of the clock to the time you arrived, this will designate how long you have been parked and if you are at risk of a ticket.
Where to Stay
Lodging options within the Faroe Islands are limited and most are located within the capital of Torshavn. This lack of supply is about to be corrected with three additional hotels are under construction within the capital and that is anticipated to open in 2020.
With its cute harbor, colorful buildings, central location, and a variety of restaurants, Torshavn is the perfect base for your exploration. The Faroe Islands are relatively compact, so even the furthest sight is only 90 minutes away from the capital.
Renting an Airbnb is highly recommended. There are many options throughout the islands and often they come with access to a washer/dryer which will come in handy after muddy hikes through sheep pastures. Additionally, access to a kitchen to prepare some of your meals will help your budget.
If hotels are more your style. Hotel Torshavn has a perfect location in the center of town. The rooms are adequate, but it will have to step up its game with the new entrants on the scene in 2020.
Where to Eat
Barbara Fish House is located in one of the historic homes in the center of town and features a menu filled with locally sourced delicacies including fish and lamb. The cozy atmosphere, attentive staff, and delicious fare make this a great choice for dinner.
Koks is the much written about, two Michelin star restaurant that has brought the Faroe Island food traditions to the world stage. Featuring a 17-course tasting menu for a limited seating of just 24 diners each night, Koks is a true splurge at 1700 Danish Krone per person. Note: Koks is temporarily closed in 2022 and 2023, but sister restaurants ROKS and Raest are open
Suppugarðurin is a great affordable choice if you are looking for a satisfying blow of hot Ramen with a local beer to wash it down. Service is friendly and they have a cute outdoor patio and live music during the summer.
What to Bring
The ever-changing weather in the Faroe’s means that layers are a must. One moment it may be raining sideways and the next the sunshine will have you grabbing for your sunglasses. Here are some essentials to ensure you can enjoy the islands—rain or shine.
Rain Pants
These will be the best investment you make for your Faroe travel wardrobe. Look for a pair of rain pants that are wind and rainproof and have a substantial zipper opening on the bottom to allow you to easily slip them on/off while on the trail without needing to remove your hiking boots.
Rain Jacket
A good wind- and rain-proof shell with a hood is essential. Make sure it is roomy enough to allow you to layer it over a sweater or fleece. Bright colors are a bonus since they look great in photos and help your travel companions easily find you among the green and brown landscape.
Hiking Boots
Shoes or boots with good treads are a must. Sneakers will not work on the varied terrain. Make sure the boots are waterproof to accommodate the driving rain, snow, and streams you will traverse along the hiking trails.
Sunglasses
The sun does pop out from the clouds throughout the day to spotlight the island’s natural beauty. Keep your sunglasses handy to avoid having to squint during one of these delightful sun breaks. They will also help protect your eyes from watering like crazy when the wind kicks up.
Hat and Gloves
Gloves to keep your fingers warm in the cold wind and a hat to cover up your bad weather hair.
Camera
The Faroe Islands are a photographer’s delight. Everywhere you point your lens frames a stunning shot. Bring lots of memory cards and back-up batteries as your camera will be getting quite the workout.
Water Bottle
The Faroese water is some of the purest in the world. Don’t bother with purchasing bottled water. Save your money and instead simply fill your reusable water bottle at the nearest tap.
Snacks
Outside of Torshavn, restaurants, and cafes are few and far between. Unless you happen upon a friendly local villager who has opened their home for coffee and waffles. Plan to pack snacks to enjoy during or after your hikes. Protein bars, trail mix, and dried fruit are great options.
Conclusion
The Faroe Islands with their rugged beauty, isolation, and pristine landscapes are a must for anyone with an adventurous appetite and respect for nature. Yet undiscovered by the masses, visit now to experience its unspoiled vistas and unique culture which will not disappoint.
[Note: Affiliate links may appear in this blog post, which means we get a small commission if you click on a link and purchase something. No extra cost to you of course.]
———
For Pinners:
